Pastel villages clinging to sheer cliffs, lemon groves above the sea and a coastal road with more than a thousand bends: the Amalfi Coast is Italy’s most spectacular stretch of coastline – and with a little planning you can enjoy it without the stress.
The Costiera Amalfitana runs for around 50 kilometres from Positano to Vietri sul Mare along the southern side of the Sorrento Peninsula and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here you will find the most beautiful towns, the best viewpoints and honest tips on avoiding traffic jams, bus queues and overpriced hotels.
1. Positano: the postcard icon
No town is photographed as much as Positano: colourful houses stack up from the Spiaggia Grande beach to the road high above, linked by narrow stepped lanes full of boutiques. The best views are from the road above town or from the water.
Tip: stay at least one night and enjoy the town in the evening, once the day-trippers have left. For swimming, the smaller Fornillo beach is more relaxed than Spiaggia Grande.
→ See Positano & Amalfi boat trip
2. Amalfi & Atrani
In the Middle Ages, Amalfi was a powerful maritime republic – as its magnificent Cathedral of Sant’Andrea with its steep staircase shows. Life buzzes around Piazza Duomo, and the Paper Museum explains why paper was already being made here in the 13th century.
Just a ten-minute walk away lies Atrani, one of Italy’s smallest villages – with a tiny piazza, a town beach and far less bustle. Perfect for dinner.
3. Ravello: gardens above the sea
High above the coast sits Ravello, the most elegant town on the Costiera. The gardens of Villa Rufolo and the “Terrace of Infinity” at Villa Cimbrone, lined with marble busts, offer one of the finest views in Italy.
In summer, the Ravello Festival hosts open-air concerts with the sea as a backdrop.
→ See Positano, Amalfi & Ravello tour
4. The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei)
The coast’s most famous hike runs high above the sea from Bomerano (Agerola) to Nocelle above Positano – around 8 kilometres and about three hours, mostly downhill. The views of the coast all the way to Capri are breathtaking.
Start early in the morning, bring plenty of water and wear sturdy shoes. From Nocelle, around 1,500 steps lead down to Positano – or you can take the bus.
5. Fiordo di Furore
Between Praiano and Amalfi, a narrow fjord cuts deep into the rock, spanned by a high road bridge. Below lie a small pebble beach and old fishermen’s houses – one of the most photogenic spots on the coast.
Stop at the bridge (parking is scarce) and take the steps down. Early in the morning you often have the fjord almost to yourself.
6. Side trip to Capri
In summer, ferries and excursion boats leave Positano and Amalfi daily for Capri. A boat trip around the island with the Faraglioni rocks and – when the sea is calm – the Blue Grotto is the perfect day out.
Getting there & around
Airport: Naples (NAP) is the nearest airport, around 1.5 hours from Positano. Continue by transfer or bus via Sorrento or Salerno.
Car or not? The SS163 coastal road is narrow, winding and often jammed in summer, and parking is scarce and expensive. In peak season, number-plate based driving restrictions apply at times. Many visitors find buses and ferries more relaxing.
Ferries: from spring to autumn, ferries run between Salerno, Amalfi and Positano – faster than the bus and with the best views.
Cheaper stays: Sorrento and Salerno are more affordable and well connected – ideal as a base.
Best time to visit
May, June, September and October are ideal: warm enough to swim, but far less crowded than July and August. In winter, many hotels and restaurants are closed.
Our 4-day plan
Day 1: arrive, explore Positano and watch the sunset on the beach.
Day 2: Path of the Gods in the morning, afternoon swim at Fornillo.
Day 3: ferry to Amalfi, walk to Atrani, bus up to Ravello.
Day 4: boat trip to Capri or along the coast with swimming stops.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do I need for the Amalfi Coast?
At least three to four days. With Capri and a lazy beach day, five to seven days are ideal.
Where is the best place to stay?
Positano is the most beautiful but most expensive. Amalfi is central for buses and ferries. Sorrento and Salerno are cheaper and well connected.
Is a rental car worth it?
For getting there and trips inland, yes – on the coast itself, not really. Buses and ferries are often quicker than hunting for parking.
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